Just about everyone is familiar with Portsmouth– its narrow streets filled with shops and restaurants, seaside parks and beaches just minutes away and any number of historic buildings to tour. But if you haven’t experience the city through the eyes of a local, you’re missing out.
Finding a Portsmouth local turned out to be pretty easy – all it took was one phone call to my college roommate, Molly French, who was born and raised in Portsmouth. She likes it there so much, she’s living in the house she grew up in and works at one of the elementary schools as a fourth-grade teacher. If anyone is in the know, she is.
As most Portsmouth residents will tell you, parking can be a giant pain. There’s not a whole lot of room on the street, and unless you’re a whiz at parallel parking, it’s best to stick to parking lots. Molly recommends the lot behind Citizens Bank on Parrott Avenue. Parking is free, and you’re welcome to leave your car for up to 72 hours. If none of the 186 spaces are available, and on-street parking on Parrott looks full, head down Junkins Avenue, crossing over the South Mill Pond. Take the first right into the parking lot for Leary Field.
Now that the car is safely stowed away, here are some must-dos for the next time you visit this Seacoast city.
Shop ’til you drop
I Want Candy: In addition to the usual candy store fare, patrons will find candy from the Brits (Areo, Wine Pastilles and Happy Hippos), retro candy (Mary Janes, Pixi Sticks, Wax Lips and Pop Rocks) and an extensive licorice collection. You’ll also find sugar-free candy and, for the risk-taking candy connoisseur, chocolate-dipped insects, spice-flavored crickets and lollipops with scorpions, crickets and hot chili peppers. Hours are Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday by chance, Thursday-Saturday 11 a.m.-5 p.m. and Sunday noon-5 p.m. For more, call 373-8211.
Macroscopic and Macro Polo: Two totally different gift stores in one at 89 and 93 Market St. At Macroscopic, there’s an eclectic collection of home décor items, purses made from license plates, adorable baby items, bath and body products by Archipelago, and stationary, some of which is made from elephant poo (consequently, it’s also the brand name of the product). Most items are at prices that won’t break the bank. A “gurgle pot” creamer, for example, will only set you back $16 – a small price to pay for novelty dishware shaped like a fish that actually gurgles when you pour liquids.
Macro Polo’s product lineup is for the kid at heart and those with a strong stomach – there’s a toilet with fake you-know-what in it – but if you get past that, you’re sure to find something you didn’t know you needed. Pickle Band-Aids, bacon-flavored mints, flying nuns, pink plastic flamingos, pens with embarrassing business names – you name it, it’s here. The action figures depicting the likes of Edgar Allan Poe, Jesus, a librarian and a crazy cat lady are perennial favorites, not to mention the selection of Ugly Dolls. To find more information or to shop online, visit macropolo.com.
Bull Moose: Music fans should definitely check out this store for a selection of new and used CDs, as well as games and movies. The popular shop got its start in Portsmouth, and it’s where all the cool kids hang out. Find it at 82 Congress St. Hours are Mondays from 9:30 a.m.-12:30 a.m. and Tuesday-Sunday 9:30 a.m.-11 p.m. For more, visit bullmoose.com.
Portsmouth Farmers Market: If you’re visiting on Saturday, Molly’s first recommendation is to make a stop at the farmers market. It’s held across the street from Leary Field at city hall. Aside from local produce, flowers and handcrafted items, there’s also fresh breakfast sandwiches and to-die-for apple cider donuts, says our guide. The market is open through Nov. 7 from 8 a.m.-1 p.m. For more information, visit seacoastgrowers.org.
Here a few more picks:
G. Willikers! Toy Shop, 13 Market St. gwillikers.com
Lucky 7, 16 Sheafe St. Original artist-crated item and vintage collectables. lucky7nh.com
Serendipity, 41 Pleasant St. Women’s clothing and accessories. serendipitynh.com
Paradiza Boutique, 63 Penhallow St. Accessories, cards and gifts. paradizaboutique.com
Nightlife, anyone?
Press Room: A live music mainstay for the past 30 years, with performances seven nights a week. Food – both snacks and entrees – and a full bar are available. Entertainment includes blues, bluegrass, rockabilly and Latin jazz. For more, visit pressroomnh.com.
The Red Door: It is, literally, a red door – there’s no sign or indication it’s a business. It’s located next to Dos Amigos at 107 State St. A set of stairs leads to the second-floor martini bar that looks like you just walked into someone’s apartment. A DJ plays mood music most nights with live performances Monday evenings, but that can make for crowded seating, says Molly, so plan to arrive early. Wednesday is ladies night, with $5 martinis for women. For more, visit reddoorportsmouth.com.
Grab a cup of coffee (and dessert)
Breaking New Grounds: Market Square is known for this coffee hotspot, popular with tourists and locals alike. If you’re lucky, and it’s not 20 degrees outside, you can score a table outside and people-watch to your heart’s content. Inside, you’ll find a full coffee menu, including some fancy concoctions, and slices of cake, cookies and other pastries. It’s open Sunday-Thursday from 6:30 a.m.-10 p.m. and until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. For more, call 436-9555.
Café Kilim: If you want to see where the locals go to get their coffee, you’ll have to drive a little beyond the downtown area to 163 Islington St. At the cafe, you’ll find espresso drinks, coffee basics and assorted pastries. It’s open Monday-Thursday from 7 a.m.-8 p.m., Friday-Saturday 7 a.m.-9 p.m. and Sunday 8 a.m.-7 p.m. For more, visit caffekilim.com.
Popovers on the Square: At Popovers, 8 Congress St., you can eat the most delicious popovers ever served with a side of maple butter. The maple butter is delicious by itself, but in the interest of not giving yourself an instant sugar rush, use the popover to spread the maple butter love. Also, check out the carrot cake decorated with carrot people in the dessert case. Open Monday-Thursday from 7 a.m.-9 p.m., Friday 7 a.m.-11 p.m., Saturday 8 a.m.-11 p.m. and Sunday 8 a.m.-9 p.m. For more, visit popoversonthesquare.com.
You won’t go hungry in this city
Gilley’s: A local favorite for late-night munchies at 175 Fleet St. While Gilley’s is permanently situated now, it got its start in 1912 as a mobile lunch cart. The cart was pulled to Market Square first by horse, then tractor and finally, by truck. The restaurant got its Fleet Street home in 1974 when the city donated land to the then-iconic food cart. That left 58 years in between for plenty of parking violations, though, and to this day, you can find Gilley’s in the Guinness Book of World Records for the most parking tickets. An employee told us that we’d have to visit around midnight for the full effect, when 98 percent of the people are intoxicated and the other 2 percent served them. At lunchtime, it was much quieter – there was even a dad bottle-feeding his kid, so no worries about a raucous crowd if you go before last call. Gilley’s is open every day from 11:30 a.m.-2:30 a.m. except Monday when it closes at 6 p.m. The menu includes sandwiches, burgers, hot dogs, fries and even poutine (French fries, cheese curds, melted cheddar and gravy), which we hear is better than the Canadian original. For more, visit gilleyspmlunch.com.
Ceres Bakery: In addition to cookies, cakes and pies, breakfast is served daily from 7 a.m.-11 p.m. and lunch is available from 11 a.m.-3 p.m. There are coffee cakes, breakfast sandwiches and muffins for breakfast, and sandwiches and daily specials for lunch – there’s always a vegetarian and meat option. Located at 51 Penhallow St. Hours are Monday-Friday 7 a.m.-5 p.m., Saturday 7 a.m.-4 p.m. and Sunday 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Visit ceresbakery.com for more information.
The Friendly Toast: You can get breakfast here all day (green eggs and ham is on the menu), plus burgers, burritos, sandwiches and falafel. The décor is as eclectic as the menu, with plenty of retro flair. Located at 121 Congress St. Hours are Monday-Thursday from 7 a.m.-10 p.m. with extended service on the weekend. Eat anytime between Friday at 7:30 a.m. until Sunday at 9 p.m.
Muddy River Smokehouse: Muddy River, at 21 Congress St., was Molly’s pick for families. The dining room is made to look like you’re eating outside, with trees between the tables and glowing stars on the ceiling. It’s like being at camp, but with running water and bathrooms. Get your name on the wall of fame by eating the “squealer.” It’s a full rack of ribs, 1 pound of pulled pork, ½ a smoke chicken, a pint of barbecue beans, mashed potatoes and cornbread for $29.99. Eat it in an hour and you’ll get a $25 gift card and squealer T-shirt. You might have to pay for the ambulance ride to the hospital. (Just kidding.) Other unique treats include fried pickles and “fowl balls,” chicken with bacon and honey-Dijon-dipping sauce. Open daily from 11 a.m.-9 p.m. on weekdays and until 10:30 p.m. on Friday and Saturday.
To learn more about Portsmouth attractions and businesses, visit the city’s chamber of commerce website at portsmouthchamber.org.
